When there are multiple entries for the same climb (e.g. Magic Mushroom (A3) and Free Magic Mushroom (8b+)) how should we name them?
imo I'd prefer to call them the same thing (i.e. both "Magic Mushroom") as I think this reflects how people would refer to them in conversation i.e. (in my dreams) I might say "I freed Magic Mushroom", whereas I don't think I'd say "I did Free Magic Mushroom". The obvious downside to this is that the climbs don't have a unique name so there is some room for confusion, but this is a problem anyway (e.g. Gaia, Gaia) so we already need tools in place to help people distinguishe between climbs with the same name.
Both Magic Mushroom. Otherwise you get into renaming a lot of climbs at Millstone.
So far I've followed the site convention of differentiating Magic Mushroom and Free Magic Mushroom etc. The latter does sound a bit clunky to my ears. How about Magic Mushroom (Free)?
Actually I've changed my mind. {name} only. I shall try to be careful about which routes I link to.
Now you're going to ask for consistency between categorising free walls as sport routes or trad. routes!
Actually I've changed my mind. {name} only. I shall try to be careful about which routes I link to.
Nice one, thanks Duncan.
Now you're going to ask for consistency between categorising free walls as sport routes or trad. routes!
😅 I feel Im largely to blame for this, flip of a coin which way I've gone in the past! With the tools we currently have available I think trad grade, with an 'alternative grade' meta with the sport grade is the best way to go though. What do you think?
I think a french grade is essential since it's a direct translation of a YDS grade, any E grade will be a guesstimate. But most of these routes are trad., some emphatically so. Is there any way to give French grades to trad. routes? If not then your suggestion of trad grade, with an 'alternative grade' sport grade is the next best option.
Is there any way to give French grades to trad. routes?
Not currently. The way it is setup is that every type of climb (trad, sport, bouler etc.) can only have one type of grade associated with it, and for trad routes this is an e grade. This has a lot of advantages in being able to compare routes from around the world on one scale without having to do a conversion, though with the disadvantage that the work of doing the conversion is pushed onto us as contributors.
tbh while it's not perfect, if you have a sport grade for something and some experience with trad then it's generally pretty straightforward to make a good guess at a UK trad grade.
I've guesstimated E-grades for everything on El Cap. I used Darth Grader's multipitch facility to give a cumulative equivalent sport grade on notably sustained routes like Magic Mushroom (equivalent to "8c+") and Dawn Wall ("9b+") and engineered an E-grade from that. Giving Dawn Wall E10 as it's a bolt-protected 9a doesn't really convey the overall difficulty!
Top work, thanks 🙏